Issey Miyake Trades In Pleats For Squares

The playful ebb and flow Issey Miyake is known for was traded in for squares and edges in the brand’s most recent collection. In the Issey Miyake Fall Winter 2023 - 24 show, the concept of The Square And Beyond, was original and explored experimentally. The runway became a creative’s homage to the birth of ideas: empty canvases, blank sheets of paper, untouched fabric, and scores of music. This concept quickly colored the canvas it took inspiration from.

Before the show began, a small gathering of marimbas stood in the center of the Théâtre du Châtelet in Paris, waiting to be played by the percussion ensemble Trio SR9. The triangular shape of these instruments was gathered and enclosed by a rectangular light being cast down. Then gently, the path for the catwalk was revealed as SR9 began to play. Keeping to the theme of squares, a large line ran through where the performers stood as another rectangular ring appeared and ran around it. 

As looks slowly came onto the runway, the choice of color in the collection was quite noticeable. The palette was comparatively more muted compared to previous winter shows that the Issey Miyake label has released. White and black made an obligatory appearance on the runway in several looks, either to be contrasted in the same garment or to color block between tops, bottoms, and coats. Teal and purple found themselves paired either with heather gray or white –a combination that at times emulated the discomforting cold of winter. Blood orange-reds, and the regular kind of orange, were the sole pops of color throughout the entire show. The choice of these colors creates a sense of unease as a tense relationship between the vision and visuals was not only seen but felt. 

The innovative choice of color added more of an edge to the looks found on the runway. The pursuit to square the feminine silhouette was accomplished through the use of geometric patterns and cuts in tandem with the collection’s color palette. Asymmetric knit bodices carried a discomforting cohesiveness as sheer skirts with a square pattern printed onto them billowed out from underneath. Thick teal stripes ran across free-flowing skirts and tops; both of these garments were cut off by the square scheme knit pieces they found themselves sewn to.

In other looks, weaving techniques such as counterpoint knit, rhythm check, and double knitting were used in the collections knitwear portion. Counterpoint was used in gowns that stretched and twisted along the models’ bodies. The puckering of each knitted row, in combination with the contrasting black lines seen on both gowns, creates a hypnotic visual. Rhythm check, which is a technique that involves shrinking yarn to create a three-dimensional puckering, sits stiffly on the models as mini dresses and a blazer. These three looks had an emphasis on movement in the fabric rather than the garment itself. 

The “edginess” of this collection was followed through in its entirety and did not stray for a single second. The construction of looks that mimic an artist’s canvas is achieved perfectly through color, cut, pattern, and weaving techniques. Creating a body of work that takes inspiration from an object not known for movement or play, is an interesting decision for head designer Satoshi Kondo to make for a brand known for these things. Yet this collection still remained true to the brand's roots by weaving the playfulness that Issey Miyake is known for into the knitting technique of the fabric itself. 

Strike Out, 

Alyssa Quarrie 

Boca Raton 

Alyssa Quarrie is a Content Writer for Strike Magazine Boca. When she’s not losing herself in another book, she’s working out with friends, looking for flights, and thrifting her wallet away. You can reach her at alyssaquarrie@gmail.com