A love letter through fashion to Vivienne Westwood for FW 23
As the fashion world continues to mourn the loss of British Fashion designer Vivienne Westwood, we are given a stunning Fall/Winter 23 show we are sure she would have loved by husband and designer Andreas Kronthaler. The show was a tribute to the late designer, the queen of punk.
The FW 23 show was held at the historic Hôtel de la Marine. Stars such as Halsey, Georgia May Jagger, Julia Fox, Jared Leto, and Vogue’s Anna Wintour sat in the front row.
The first song that played while the models walked was “La Valse, M. 72” by Maurice Ravel. The song was used in a ballet choreographed by George Balanchine, and it depicts a woman who becomes attracted to a figure of death and ultimately dies. The song transitioned to T.N.T by AC/DC, an homage to Westwood’s pop-punk personality with the track. The show closed with another Ravel piece called “pavane pour une infante défunte,” which translates to ‘Pavane for a dead Princess.’
The opening look featured a graphic tee with a portrait of Westwood and an A + V in a heart. Closing the show was Westwood’s granddaughter, Cora Corré, who wore the bridal look of the collection. Other models, such as Irina Shayk and Candice Swanepoel, walked the show.
If you are a fan of Vivienne Westwood, it felt nostalgic watching each look. Throughout the show, there were subtle references to her past collections. While everyone was in the hippie movement during the 70s, Westwood was interested in the rebellion. In all her designs, we see her pushing the boundaries, having her own meaning of fashion, and challenging how something could be styled and worn. Her earliest debuts are known for their “pop punk London chic.” In 1981, Westwood began her ‘Pirate Era,’ A few looks in this show had references to it with long trenches, baggy trousers/parachute pants, and cloth tied around the neck. In the late 80s and early 90s, Westwood transitioned to a ragamuffin aesthetic, represented throughout the show with a lot of pattern mixing, feeling childish and goofy.
The no-pants trend of the last two seasons persisted, brought back by Bottega Veneta in their SS23 show, but it was Westwood that has been doing it since 1993. And as an absolute trendsetter, she was among the first designers to explore androgynous styling. This collection exhibited examples of that with loose silhouettes and boxy structures. Kronthaler delivered with one look after the other, filled with great individuality and creativity.
Westwood’s designs have always been unconventional. Nothing is the same throughout the collection. Kronthaler brought her spirit to the runway, a great homage to a great designer. Kronthaler wrote about the late designer: “I will continue with Vivienne in my heart. We have been working until the end, and she has given me plenty of things to get on with. Thank you, darling.” It’s safe to say our hearts ached and eyes filled with tears as the beloved Vivienne Westwood will be missed.
Strike Out,
Morgann Rhule
Boca Raton
Morgann (yes with 2 n’s) is a content writer for Strike Magazine. Her best friends describe her as a shopaholic bookworm who gives the best advice. Born in Jamaica, she wears it proudly with a beaded red, green and gold necklace she never takes off. You can reach her on insta @morgannrhule or email morgannrhule@gmail.com