A Closer Look Into Fashion Evolution Theory
History is known to repeat itself, especially when it comes to the fashion industry. Like every other aspect of our lives, it is ever-changing, but also everlasting.
From cinched waists and polka dots in the ‘50s to high waisted shorts and leg warmers in the ‘80s, fashion has seen major changes through the decades. As 20th-century styles continue to circulate like a revolving door, they have all been spotted at one point in the 21st century, making it a compilation of trends from every generation.
The nature of fashion is cyclical. Trends come and go, but as we’ve seen in the last 10 years, they seem to find their way back to our wardrobes even decades later.
Image Courtesy: Tumblr
So, how did the mom jeans and high tops from our mother’s high school wardrobe from the 1980s end up in stores in 2020?
Our parents may not appreciate the styles they wish were left behind in 1985, but to us, they carry a nostalgia to them and even though we weren’t around to see them for the first time, their resurfacing is comforting.
There are theories about the repetition in the fashion industry, one of them being the “20-Year Rule”, which states trends that are popular now will be back again in 20 years. These trends may not be an exact replica of their predecessors, but they will take on some inspiration and be altered to fit modern styles.
James Laver, a fashion theorist in the 1900s, created Laver’s Law, which says that styles go through a cycle, starting as “indecent” 10 years before their time, then “daring” about 1 year before, and finally they are “smart”. After they have had their time in the spotlight, they die out and are “ridiculous” 30 years later, but eventually, they’ll be “charming”. This seems to hold true with many vintage styles.
When trends are seen worn by celebrities and on TV, they resurface and will be in high demand. Designers take advantage of the opportunity and produce styles that they know people are looking for, but once they are no longer unique, they become somewhat old news and can be available to the public as knock-offs, causing them to die out once again.
Another theory to consider is the Trickle Down, Trickle Across, and Trickle Up. The Trickle Down uses a hierarchical society, assuming that a trend will begin at the top and eventually be adopted into those in a lower class of society. When they take on the styles, the members of the higher class begin to reject them.
Trickle Across demonstrates how fashion moves between social groups, starting out popular in one group of people and moving across them when they begin to pick up on the other’s cues.
Image Courtesy: Dolce&Gabbana
Finally, the Trickle Up theory is brought on by designers who pick their looks from the average person’s style, like street style. They use already established, functional trends and introduce them to those of a higher class.
One designer in particular who is known for their vintage style is Dolce&Gabanna. A major inspiration seen in their designs is classic Italy.
“Small details like the piping, or the cut of the lapels however bring the suit into the 21st century, attesting to how a true classic is as chameleonic as it is constant, (Pieces of History, Dolce&Gabbana).”
Their values stem from a belief that the past will forever be in our future, and will be able to be adopted into any modern look. They highlight the beauty of the past, and the timelessness of items you might find in your grandmother’s jewelry box, appreciating the femininity of simple ornaments.
The idea behind the hints of the past in the fashion industry is called zeitgeist, meaning “a trend characterized by traces of the past” (Fashion Zeitgeist, Barbara Vinken).
This idea is exemplified by the work of designers like Karl Lagerfeld, who was known to bring extravagant looks to the spotlight and capture fashion zeitgeist more than any other designer. He was also known for working pop culture into the industry with collaborations with brands like Barbie and Coca-Cola.
The evolution of fashion tends to be gradual, it takes time for the style to die out before it becomes popular again. These nostalgic styles are not a mirror image of their original era but have been altered to fit into modern-day fashion in the best ways possible. We’ve seen hints of this, like platform shoes, once considered ridiculous, are now a staple in many wardrobes including Gigi Hadid’s.
The life cycle of a trend eventually results in it deflecting from society, but not completely disappearing. They often create microtrends, allowing for reinvention and creating something new. Another example of this is denim jackets, which have been revamped from the 90s with the most versatility, and are seen worn by men and women with almost any outfit. Who doesn’t love a good denim moment?
Hints of vintage looks always create a feeling of excitement, putting us right back in the past, like a little taste of history. Whether it’s memorializing the past, or Golden Age Thinking, a term used to describe those who wish they were born in a different era, there will always be an appetite for nostalgia. Personally, I’m a huge fan of the John Lennon-inspired round glasses that seem to have made their way into stores like Urban Outfitters.
Movies, music, and technology also go hand-in-hand with the cyclical nature of history, and they somehow all tie together. As old movies and shows become popular, they influence us to want to adopt aspects of their fashion into our wardrobes as well. We tend to take inspiration from TV shows like Friends. The ‘90s show is still as popular as ever 20 years later, and the trends set by the characters are not far off from those we see now. Like Rachel’s pairing of dresses and sneakers, and Monica’s high-waisted jeans and Keds.
Social media sites like Tumblr have also had a major influence on styles, displaying looks from the 90s and early 2000s using movies like Clueless and Mean Girls for inspiration.
“Fashion is about storytelling and drama and theatricality, so there’s always the element of pulling stories from the past,” trend forecaster Geraldine Wharry said.
Whether they are here to stay or fade away with each passing year, vintage trends that find their way into our wardrobes are fun to play with and are a huge part of the modern-day fashion industry. The variety of styles from the 1920s to the early 2000s have meshed together to form arguably the most diverse fashion era to date. While some trends like jelly sandals and fur might never resurface, who knows what trends we’ll be looking to bring back in the next 20 years. One thing that we can count on as trends come and go is that classic looks will never go out of style.
Strike Out,
Writer: Emma Saunders
Boca Raton