Revival, Taxi and Chaos. The new era of Helmut Lang under Peter Do
Images Courtesy: Helmut Lang
This afternoon in New York, Peter Do’s revival of the iconic brand Helmut Lang officially kicked off New York Fashion Week. This has been one of the most anticipated shows of the season and it did not disappoint. Born in Vietnam, Do got his start studying at the Fashion Institute of Technology and worked as the Ready-To-Wear atelier at Celine under Phoebe Philo. He was also the recipient of 2014 LVMH prize and has his own self-entitled brand “Peter Do.”
Do arrived at Helmut Lang in May and has already made the brand something for everyone to fall in love with all over again. Founded in 1986 by the Austrian designer, Helmut Lang prides itself on its craftsmanship and attention to detail. In the late 90s and early 2000s, the brand was famous for its luxury jeans and almost perfect fitting basics. However, in many interviews by the New York Times and GQ, Do says that his goal isn't to recreate existing works from the archives, but to bring new ideas to the Helmut Lang brand. Basics were seen on the runway, however many fashion critics felt that with the chaotic walk of the models and sounds of traffic in the background, it did not stay true to the Helmut Lang brand.
One of the many things Do took inspiration from for this collection was cars and the traffic of New York City. Many pants, blazers, and even shoes were ordained with vintage seat belts dyed in shades of magenta, golden yellow, and silver. In an interview with GQ, Do says that the seatbelts are symbolic of his journey in America and “how he could go anywhere by car” (Do was quoted in “The Return of a Beloved New York Brand- and the Rise of a New Fashion Star by Samuel Hine, GQ). This collection is all about functionality: clothes you can wear to work or to a night out on the town.
Another inspiration was Do’s longtime friend, Vietnamese poet Ocean Vuong. One of Vuong’s original poems was the stage for the show today. Plastered on the concrete in big white lettering, it was reminiscent of the Helmut Lang and Jenny Holzer campaign for one of the Helmut Lang fragrances from the 2000’s. Vuong’s poem played over the speakers as the models walked and one in every five models had a stanza from the poem printed on a tee shirt.
The show was star studded on and off the runway. Many models from the 90s and 2000s Helmut Lang shows were seen back on the runway, like Sasha Pivovarova who closed the show. In the crowd, American journalist Eva Chen, actress and model Hari Nef, and founder of the instagram account “Up Next Designer” Albert Ayal sat in awe. When asked the first word that comes to mind about Peter Do’s Helmut Lang debut, words like taxi, chaos, and revival can come to mind.
The oversized blazers and A-line cut dresses seen today are reminiscent of the brand’s Fall/Winter 1994 Ready-To-Wear collection, but with a new Peter Do touch. Coming in to revive one of the most iconic New York brands is anything but simple. As fashion critics begin to hone in on this new era of Helmut Lang and Peter Do, it will be interesting to see where the young creative director takes the vision next.
Strike Out,
Ali Tarnowsky
Boca Raton
Ali Tarnowsky is the Fashion Director for Strike Magazine Boca. When she’s not writing about fashion or styling, you can find her with her best friends. You can reach her on Instagram @alitarnowsky or at a.n.tarnowsky@gmail.com
