Coach SS24 Creates Corporate Grunge
Image Courtesy: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
The Coach SS24 show has New York written all over it. As the fashion house held its runway show at the New York Public Library near Bryant Park, the brand paid homage to its city. Stuart Vevers, creative director of Coach, designed what he considers a personal collection. “I wanted to capture New York archetypes- my New York archetypes,” said Ververs. With his father and children present, he wanted to celebrate his 10 years of being at Coach. Celebs such as JLo, Lola Tung, India Amarteifio, and Lil Nas X were in attendance. As for ‘America’s House of Leather,’ Coach has built and maintained a reputation for fine leather goods.
Though the brand was founded in 1941, it’s most notable for its vintage Y2K designs that are deeply beloved by thrifters today. After their nostalgic early 2000s boom, the brand stayed under the radar until about three years ago. Climate change and sustainability have become more prominent in the last few years, and their torn-bag scandal landed them to do a complete 180. Coach found several ways to become a more eco-conscious and less wasteful brand. Upcycling denim and leather and regenerative leather and cotton are the materials that they’re now committed to. PETA had two anti-leather protesters interrupt the show, but Vevers remains unfazed, stating that he “respects all points of view.”
We’d be lying if we said that Coach didn’t have the rebrand of the decade. While still staying true to the company’s timeless designs, the spring/summer 2024 collection catered to an edgier demographic. As the venue reflected the essence of the “dark academia” aesthetic, the looks counteracted the minimalist decor. The looks were loud yet soft simultaneously, lots of leather gave an edge as pops of pink and purple accessories gave the outfits a sense of youthfulness. Pairs of lace dresses and biker boots were another popular look at this show. A potential nod to the anti-work movement, the looks are professional and rebellious at the same time. Some would consider it the perfect NYC uniform to be worn by those in the corporate realm. Blazers and leather jackets make up a large amount of the 95 looks. Trying to make Coach more of a ready-to-wear brand, Vevers is responsible for building a $740 million-a-year company.
Leather is a force of love at Coach, so it’s no surprise that some looks are leather from head to toe. Whether it's outerwear, dresses, or boots, they find a way to make leather on leather on leather look good. Blazers and leather jackets make up a large amount of the 95 looks. Vevers wanted to take an experimental approach with this collection and considers looks a continuation of what was demonstrated in previous seasons. An example of this would be the leather slip dresses which came in black, red, and lavender. The leather had a worn-in feel, and Vevers explains that he wants things at Coach to feel like they’ve been lived and loved in.
Another more subtle detail would be the kiss marks all over dresses and bags. The imprints were a delicate detail that tied many lace looks together, giving the collection some traditional femininity to it. Dresses designed to look like they’re draped ever-so-gracefully are seen as opposite to the grunge-esque rips and holes in the first few dress looks of the show.
What do fish, bananas, dinosaurs, ducks, lips, hearts, and bones have in common? They’re the latest shapes of Coach’s newest handbags. When talking about Coach, it’s nearly impossible to forget about their handbags. In all the colors of the rainbow, handbags stood out from the muted tones of the majority of the outfits they were accompanied with. Not only were they colorful, but the shapes some came in were particularly eye-catching among the other two bags most models wore.
Solid color enamel pins were adorned on the lapels of jackets, and earrings of different animals dangled from many models’ earlobes. Spider-shaped pins and triceratops-shaped earrings were another feature that brought a free-spirited energy to the otherwise business casual outfit.
Some items that we can see becoming trends this year include lots of cherry red leather, whether it's on a jacket, boots, or bags. Colorful accessories may also help illuminate a rather dim outfit, and make the look more lively. Mixing lace with leather balances on the line that is grunge chic. Exaggerated trench coats could also be something that inspires others to go dig through a thrift store in hopes of finding something similar.
This collection was exceptionally on-brand for Coach, despite introducing new silhouettes. As seasons passed, we continue to watch the New York fashion house closely and admire its commitment to consistent quality and style.
Strike Out,
Emily Fiorini-Casamayouret
Boca Raton
Emily Fiorini-Casamayouret is the Senior Editor and Content Writer for Strike Magazine Boca Raton. When she isn’t writing, this Cancer enjoys listening to music, reading, doing some retail therapy, & eating pasta. You can reach her on Instagram @emilyfiorini, or at emilyfiorinic@gmail.com
