Mugler SS25 Scales Back and Steps Into the Light

It’s not a typical rainy Thursday afternoon in Paris this week. Instead, it is a day that reveals a change in Mugler's mood. 

Inside the Parisian concert hall Le Trianon, singers such as Cardi B, Anitta, and Normani sat down to watch the showcase from the infamous French fashion house. 

“Now, at this point for me at Mugler, I think I’ve shown the character, shown the personality, and now I kind of want to show the clothes,” said creative director Casey Cadwallader in an interview with Vogue Business. 

Mugler is known for its highly theatrical, loud, and dark shows. Last season's show featured celebrity cameos such as Paris Hilton and Angela Basset on the runway. Cadwallader decided to return the show to a more traditional layout. The lack of distracting elements, such as special effects and thumping music, brings attention back to the pieces. 

Due to many luxury brands facing sales slumps, Mugler wants to hone in on the pieces—especially accessories, as seen in the presentation of a new handbag, The Fang. 

So, unlike the spring/summer 2024 show, there is no smoke, curtain ripping, or dimmed lighting, which are all things that people get excited about and even expect from the brand. This is all especially significant in context with the 50th anniversary and the documentary releasing the day before. 

“Mugler is always here to do something different. This time, I decided I want daylight,” said Cadwallader.

The collection's looks are concise and cohesive, with matching accessories such as pointed platform heels. As seen in model Colin Jones' opening outfit, similar shapes are pulled from head to toe. On top, the blunt black V-shaped bang draws the eye down to the suiting jacket's rounder but deeper neckline. Then, at the bottom, the same cutout can be seen on the heel, closed with a simple pearl button. 

The attention to detail is evident throughout the collection. The suits feature exaggerated curvy hip and shoulder shapes, which refer to silhouettes from Theirry Mugler from the 1990s. Cardi B even attended the show with a blunt bang and look 13 before it hit the runway. 

In addition to the black looks with standing collars and curvy cutouts, the inspiration of flowers can be seen through colors and structure. It can first be seen through Cadwallader’s mood board, which features orchids and other flowers cut in half. One green and white dress resembled the ombre stem of an orchid. The draping of the fabric gave it an effortless but constructed silhouette. 

Three looks feature pieces with applique in the shape of swiped paint. The light pleated layers of fabric give the look of a fallen petal, which drives home Cadwallader's goal of showcasing construction. 

Along with referencing nature, Mugler’s theme of science fiction and technology could also be seen. One look was a long, clear plastic trench coat with a fishnet-like dress underneath. The clear crystals attached looked futuristic but played with elements like rain. One structured suit also featured metallic detailing that resembled stars. Both outfits looked straight out of The Matrix. 

The show also spotlighted some pieces from their new menswear collection. Looks featured denim, Mugler’s number one category. This made it a material that Cadwallader wanted to play with in the suits. It gave the outfits a more casual look, and by adding elements like zippers and lace-up sides, it still showed unique features. 

Anok Yai closed the show as she did last season but in a more muted way. At the SS24 show, she had a showstopping windy performance, but this time, her face was obscured by the dramatic bang. Her look was still stunning, and she flaunted a twist on the intricate corset dress that the brand is known for. It again shows Cadwallader’s ability to put his own interpretation on the brand’s archives.

Mugler took a new step by devolving in its production. But the only and most important exception was the clothes. The innovatively stunning collection still gave fans what they wanted: a callback to Theirry’s old looks. 

Strike Out,

Kim Nguyen

Boca Raton

Kim Nguyen is a Content Writer for Strike Magazine Boca. When not overthinking, this fangirl is either consuming romance media, Vietnamese coffee, or Beyoncé's discography. You can reach her by email at kimvunguyen14@gmail.comor on Instagram @kimnguyen1_.