Hanfu
Image Courtesy: unicornlalaha on Instagram
With ancient roots tracing back more than three thousand years to the Shang Dynasty, Hanfu is re-emerging from a past mystical chapter in history books and being reinvented back into daily fashion. The subcultural phenomenon was ignited by the pride Chinese youths have towards their heritage and a yearning to inform the world about traditional Chinese culture.
Hanfu has exponentially evolved throughout Chinese history with the passing of each dynasty until the Qing dynasty which called upon its forced removal. Song and Ming Dynasties Hanfu clothing reflects implicit beauty with styles composed of luxurious materials, such as satin and silk, ornate with gold leaves to exuberate its opulence. The artisan skill set that is necessary to build elements from these dynasties is materialized through the item’s meticulous embroidery and layered silhouette. The Tang Dynasty distinguishes itself with a romantic chest-high cut Hanfu known as ruqun. Its incorporation of sheer material for the chest and arms ornate with bright patterns characterizes itself between the three.
The integration of Hanfu into daily attire was largely motivated to change the rift between modern and traditional by bringing forth the knowledge and practices from China’s old-world by the Chinese Y and Gen Z population. The revival of Opulent fabrics swaying in gracefully draped silhouettes, accentuating gracefulness, was accelerated by prevalent periodic series such as Netflix’s Bridgerton and Chinese dramas such as The Imperial Doctress (based on Ming-style) and Serenade of Peaceful Joy (taking place in the Song period). Traditional references to historical artifacts from predominantly the Song (10th to 13th century), Ming (14th to 17th century), and less commonly the Tang period (7th to 10th century) with a modern twist to make this extravagant style rich with different textiles, embroidery, and elegant hairpieces, more casual as well as easier to incorporate in everyday wear.
While the juxtaposition of modern and ancient clothing predominantly composes Hanfu's reinvention, makeup and accessories should not be underestimated. Through the incorporation of casual blouses or shirts with contemporary, simple accessories, the modernization of this ancient concept can be observed. Its modern quality is further reinforced through the use of contemporary make-up looks since what is considered beautiful now has polarly diverted from previous ideologies of what beauty was back in the different dynasties.
Many supporters hope that this elegance will integrate to be as commonplace as the Japanese kimono is throughout the island, instead of leaving it for ceremonial holidays. Although this vision is being exponentially brought into fruition, some Chinese individuals argue that some of the distinction should be made with historically accurate and contemporary Hanfu so outsiders are not confused. With China’s diverse ethnicities, others also argue that it is not an accurate movement since Han makes up 92% of China’s population. Despite the divergent, controversial perspectives that Hanfu has sparked, common ground between opposing perspectives lies within the shared recognition of the new spotlight it has casted on the magnificence of the culturally rich imperial China. Through its mesmerizing fusion of imperial regality and casualty of daily wear, this elegant style translates into unique novelties that have captivated spectators worldwide.
Prior to the movement, the Hanfu style was so out of touch with modern trends that many individuals who sported these assemblages, were confused as Japanese or Korean foreigners. This is why many Hanfu groups began to hold festivals all over China so that they can gain not only understanding but a following as well. Guo-Chau or China Chic, the latest of China’s fashion trends, foster a creative China-centric aesthetic and a re-emerging pride for Chinese heritage amongst younger generations. Through this movement, they demand that Chinese culture be appreciated in response to the previous trend that entailed international cultural appreciation through the adoption of foreign aesthetics such as those of Japan and France, amongst many others.
As elaborated upon by China Daily DOCS, most Chinese individuals in Singapore are English educated except for the Chinese Dramas they watch growing up. Consequently, many do not share a strong connection to the Chinese ancient past. Rather, they identify more with English films. Globally many Chinese individuals claim to feel a disconnect from their cultural identity. This was the motivation for the Hanfu icon from Singapore known as Hanfu girl, Gong Pan Pan. She utilizes the unique approach of mixing distinctly Western symbols with Hanfu to inform people about traditional Chinese customs. This can be observed in her popular social media campaign where she dresses as the Hanfu version of Disney Princesses. By the same token, Shiyin, who grew up in Canada, ruminates on her school cultural fairs where she did not know what cultural dress to wear to represent her Chinese heritage. When Shiyin found Hanfu she was relieved that she could manifest her Chinese roots in her daily wear causing her to be immediately obsessed, instantly becoming a collector.
By shifting the focus away from Western couture, this trend also goes on to show that products created in China can bask in the spotlight as artisanal, high-quality items that are distinguished by their unique cultural elements. This is not to say that the Hanfu style distinguishes itself through luxury prices. Rather this style’s budget can be supported from double digits to five-digit articles.
With a potential consumer market of 400 million people, Hanfu has come to symbolize a mixture between the old and the new; paving the way for more international as well as national Chinese individuals to empower the connection to their culture and redefine Chinese apparel in the global marketplace.
Strike Out,
Writer: Stephanie Kopp
Editors: Cailin Rolph, Natalia Finnis-Smart
Miami