Gentrification of Fashion
Graphic Designer: Margo Ogrosky
Used, worn, previously-owned, handed-down, or well-loved - whatever you want to call them - second hand goods are ubiquitous in society, woven into varying aspects of everyday life. Whether it's the passing down of family heirlooms or the bartering in trade between different populations, trinkets, jewelry, tools, and more have traveled from owner to owner, reborn anew throughout history. As the world has evolved, so have the societal conceptions of this practice, in many cases now defined as “thrifting,” but which has roots dating back to the 1890s. For example, thrifting frequently took place with rag dealers, Jewish immigrants who sold used goods for a living. Then, with the arrival of xenophobic and anti-simetic sentiments, people quickly became averse to these practices, looking down on rag dealers and all those who purchased from them. Not long after, however, in light of so many people being rejected from the shelter and services of churches, the “salvage brigade” was born as the Salvation Army spearheaded the movement to provide shelter, clothing, and food to those in need. And from this brigade, the modern thrifting movement was born.
Thrifting and its status within the rungs of society has shapeshifted more times than one could count, but where does that leave us today? In 2023, “thrifting,” is a verb that is difficult to escape among younger generations. Buying second hand goods has not only surpassed societal acceptance but has instead become a revered and trendy practice, for some even a ritual: jaunting through stores, combing through piles of pants and scouring t-shirt racks on the hunt for the perfect item that surely no one else will have, then later flaunting it like a badge of honor. What provoked this sudden change in social perception remains a mystery: it could be attributed to the growing consciousness about the wastes and dangers propagated by fast fashion or the rise in cyclical fashion trends. However, the effects of this shift in perception are undeniable: thrifting, a practice once reserved as an economical option for those in need, has been gentrified.
As thrifting gains more and more traction in popular culture, it seems to be drifting farther and farther away from its roots in affordability. And as this happens, thrifting itself is morphing, with the sudden surge in interest in “vintage” or “discontinued” items. These items, of course, are simply second hand goods, and vintage shopping is just a synonym to thrifting. But, with these flashy new titles and sudden widespread social reverence, thrifting has become a whole new beast with a fervent sense of urgency to snag items before they’re gone and as the wealthy and “fashion forward” spend hundreds or even thousands of dollars on designer second hand pieces.
Due to this evolution, brands like Re/Done or Urban Outfitters now have their own vintage lines. Yet, these lines aren't geared towards those more in need, instead, they are carefully constructed collections listed for far higher than their original selling prices years before. Looking through these selections, it is impossible not to wonder if the resale of a Hanes cotton t-shirt for almost six hundred dollars might be an example of exploitation. While capitalizing on the trendy allure of vintage goods is a natural and even inevitable part of the fashion market's function, one must also consider the effects of these markups on a larger scale. On the one hand, it could be argued that this renaissance of second-hand shopping is long overdue and saving us from unnecessary waste, as well as preserving the art of fashion and timeless pieces; on the other hand, this change is undoubtedly negatively affecting those in need who have relied on thrifting for so long. The future of thrifting is uncertain, but one thing’s for sure: like a little black dress or a timeless trench coat, thrifting is a staple in our society that’s not going away.
Strike Out,
St. Louis
Written by: Dylan Agran
Edited by: Emily Bekesh
Graphic Designer: Margo Ogrosky