fash·ion/ˈfaSHən/: a loaded label
Image Courtesy: Graphic Design
Victoria's Secret recently released its new version of the coveted VS Fashion show. Titled “Victoria’s Secret: The Tour 2023,” the show was made up of a global adventure through the eyes of different fashion artists. The one memorable moment from “The Tour” for me was this brief conversation:
[One of the stops of “The Tour” was Lagos Nigeria, where designer Bubu Ogisi and her collaborator, Korty Eo were interviewed. This moment occurs during minute 05:20 of the film.]
Eo: “Fashion is deep”
Ogisi: “Crafts is deep darling”
Eo: “Crafts is deep because in Lagos fashion is crafts”
Following this exchange, Nigerian designer Ogisi made a striking statement, asserting that she does not label herself as a fashion designer. Instead, she proudly identifies as an artist and a crafter, driven by a profound connection to her homeland and its people when she brings clothing to life.
This nuanced perspective reveals an undercurrent of negativity associated with the term "fashion." Fashion is often perceived as a superficial concept. The creation of clothing is seen by many as a mere polluter, acting as a manifestation of our relentless pursuit of approval, acceptance, and attractiveness. Why can’t fashion transcend these notions?
The manner in which Ogisi manipulates materials like raffia, glass, silk, cotton, and bronze, using them to weave the essence of the past into a beautiful expression of modernity, undeniably qualifies her work as art. But for this very reason, some might not call it fashion.
It's not a matter of debate whether crafts and the act of crafting are forms of art. On the other hand, whether fashion falls in the category of art is up for debate. Despite its occasional interchangeability with the concept of trends and adornment, the term fashion undeniably constitutes an art form. When we acknowledge fashion as crafts, it becomes easier to appreciate the rich tapestry of tradition, culture, homage to the past, and promise of the future that goes into many designer’s work. Fashion is an expression of celebration and rebellion, we should not limit the artistry involved because of its capitalistic values.
In light of this, it is worth reconsidering our use of the term "fashion." Ogisi should not have to feel that calling herself a “fashion designer” limits the perception of her artistic capabilities. Fashion has historically held cultural significance within nations, surpassing practicality and consumerism. Let us reclaim "fashion" as the conduit for art, culture, and expression it started as in the first place…
Strike Out,
Writer: Mariana Casellas
Editor: Kaninika Dey
Graphic Design: Emily Carmichael
Boston
