Christopher Nolan’s Tenet: Suit Porn from the Costuming Department

Image Courtesy: Dove

Fortunately for Orlando, many of the Regal Cinemas in the area have been back in business since late August with adherences to CDC guidelines on masks and social distancing. That means new movies are starting to show up again as the entire country begins the gradual ascent to normalcy. One of the first fresh releases from Hollywood back on September 3 was director Christopher Nolan’s Tenet. Nolan is known for gracing the silver screen with grand spectacles that boast unrivaled cinematography, encapsulating scores, and star-studded casts. He often uses the same actors across his films such as with Inception, The Dark Knight Trilogy, Interstellar, and Dunkirk. 

Tenet is certainly no different in those aspects of a Nolan movie that we have all loved in the past. It has a similar feel to Inception in those staples of cinematography, score, and cast, all following a convoluted plot of action and reality distortion. Although, unlike Inception where manipulating dreams changes life for the protagonist, Tenet manipulates time itself. The audience follows actor John David Washington (BlacKkKlansman, Ballers) as he embarks on a journey of international espionage in order to save the world from certain destruction, only to discover a secret war sent from the future. 

Image Courtesy: The New York Times

What is unavoidably noticeable for the audience throughout Tenet, along with the aforementioned and more common Nolan-esk features, is the costuming, particularly the suits worn by the main characters. This shouldn’t come as much of a surprise though, as this is costuming director Jeffrey Kurland’s third film with Nolan, Inception and Dunkirk preceding.

Washington’s character, only known as “the Protagonist,” Robert Pattinson’s (Twilight, The Lighthouse) “Neil,” and supporting cast like Jack Cuttmore-Scott’s “Klaus” are seen here in well-tailored pieces that effectively resemble qualities of the characters, while also fitting the film’s gritty and grayscale aesthetic.

In this scene the Protagonist and his team member, Neil, head to a high-class and luxurious freeport, impersonating wealthy art owners. There, they inspect the facility with its guide, Klaus, under the assumption that they are seeing if they want to give the freeport their art to hold, but in reality (sort of) they are scoping it out for a break-in.

Naturally, when one is a secret agent impersonating a wealthy art owner, it’s essential to look the part in order to pull off such a ruse. The suits of choice by Kurland are not only character-serving and personalized, but simply gorgeous. Washington is donning a navy striped jacket and pant, black oxfords, a white striped dress shirt, light gray vest, and a sort of slate gray tie. It is a chic, crisp, and powerful suit with a dash of color that makes it clear Washington is the leader and decision-maker between himself and Pattinson. 

Image Courtesy: ABC News Radio

In looking at Pattinson’s, right away we notice that the jacket is double-breasted, a classic look originating from late British royalty (specifically Edward VIII) that is still prominent in modern fashion. The jacket/pant/pocket square combination is charcoal gray, along with an interesting white and gray striped dress shirt, and a black and gray striped tie to finish the look. Given that Pattinson’s character is one of few Brits in the film and the only one in this scene, his double-breasted jacket certainly singles him out in the best way. The shades of gray in Pattinson’s suit remain consistent with the overall aesthetic and color scheme of the scene, but the slight alterations in style make him look debonair and sophisticated, fitting the part “Neil” is trying to play. Scott’s suit is similarly gray and sharp; however, the gold tie and red lapel make it clear that “Klaus” is outside of Washington and Pattinson’s team. 

On the right is another scene where Kurland places Washington in gray, but with a jacket and pant this time instead of the tie and vest. It’s more sheen and light as opposed to others in the film, but again with a vest, and a touch of color in a subtle magenta tie. Washington’s “the Protagonist'' is gathering important information in this scene, so the suit is mainly being used for function rather than appearance.

A young man like me walks out of the theater finding himself baffled and amazed by another Christopher Nolan spectacle, but also with an appreciation for how fashion influences film and how important costume designers are in providing outfit choices that further the aspects of a character for an audience. A choice in suit reflects much of the man that dons it, and it looks like my suit game will need attention thanks to Tenet.

Strike Out,

Writer: Jacob Willeford

Orlando