Channel Your Inner Nancy Drew With Anna Sui’s FW24
Image Courtesy: Isidore Montag / Gorunway.com
Anna Sui’s Fall/Winter 2024 Ready-to-Wear was a bookworm’s dream. The show occurred in New York City’s iconic Strand Book Store. In the rare book room, among the impressive shelves, were celebrity guests like director Sophia Coppola, fellow designer Marc Jacobs, and Debbie Harry from the band Blondie.
Sui drew heavily from Agatha Christie’s crime novels, with the collection being named “WHODUNNIT.” She highlights her favorite character, Miss Marple, for being her inspiration. When watching all the movies that featured Miss Marple, the English countryside, tweeds, fair isle sweaters, and crochet collars left an impression on her. When sharing her mood board and creative process, Sui incorporates natural colors such as shades of brown, which she is not known for. She highlights this collection as different since she is infamous for her wider use of bright colors.
Sui plays with time periods throughout the show, adding her distinct grunge touch. The soundtrack included rock bands like The Smashing Pumpkins, The Breeders, and Sonic Youth. This was reflected in the first look: a fur-trimmed suede jacket, a cropped velvet top paired with a Fairisle skirt, and a silk headscarf. The collection is distinctly Anna Sui with her mixing of eccentric patterns and putting a modern twist on older styles.
In an interview with Fashionista, Anna Sui explains her love for vintage clothes by saying, “It's everything that I love…You have to find these things, hunt them down until you find that piece that you want…It doesn't matter if it's couture or what. It's the treasure and the treasure hunt that matters.” Each look features vintage elements from different eras. She collaborated with Eveliina Vintage for the collection’s slip dresses to add one-of-a-kind aspects.
The English ceramist Clarice Cliff inspires the first looks from the 1920s and 30s. Sui says she was inspired by the color palette: "Hues of marmalade, cinnamon, curry mustard, and tea rose. Mixed with tobacco, toffee, and chocolate.” Orange tweed skirts, jackets, and 90s slip dresses were presented. Bloomsbury bud prints were seen on multiple fabrics, such as crepe and satin. Argyle knee socks were paired with pointed kitten heels and flats. All of these elements, topped with a Gladstone bag, transported the crowd into the time period.
For the second presentation, Sui drew from the first-edition covers of Virginia Woolf's books. Shades of blue, black, and cream became the focus. The patterns were inspired by the Art Nouveau art of Aubrey Beardsley and were printed on crinkle chiffon and corduroy. Paisley prints were frequent and reminiscent of the 60s. Sui’s bohemian style is seen through various elements of the outfits. Delicate neck scarves and shirts and chunky knit cardigans are seen.
The show then shifts from channeling the serene English countryside to the bustling city of London. Each look was a modern twist on the flapper girl. The evening wear “embraces the glamor and sophistication of 30s London nightclubs.” Many of the silhouettes included sparkling elements. Beads, quartz bags, and lace accented the various looks. One look included a silver brocade dress, matching elbow-length gloves, and a star tiara. The closing look featured a sea nymph sequin top paired with equally stunning silver sequin pants, completely juxtaposing the first look.
The makeup by Pat Mcgrath featured dark brown and red lips with a smokey shimmery eye. It paired perfectly with each of the different color palettes. Each part of the show took the audience beyond the cozy ambient lit bookshelves and into a different world.
Strike Out,
Kim Nguyen
Boca Raton
Kim Nguyen is a Content Writer for Strike Magazine Boca. When not overthinking, this fangirl is either consuming romance media, Vietnamese coffee, or Beyoncé’s discography. You can reach her by email at kimvunguyen14@gmail.comor on Instagram @kimnguyen1_.
