An Ode to Kenzō Takada and Eclectic Fashion
Acclaimed Japanese designer Kenzo Takada’s career can be encompassed and understood by his simple mantra, “the world is beautiful”. With this mindset, Kenzo sought to bring a world of illustrious cultural elements to fashion, by relying on his travels as inspiration for his collections. He also strove to bring fashion to the world by making the industry more accessible to consumers as he believed that, “Fashion is not for the few-it is for all people”. In light of his unfortunate passing due to the Coronavirus, it is important to reflect upon the light and innovation that his presence shed onto an industry characterized by stark exclusivity. From an early age, Kenzo challenged the mold of societal expectation by dropping out of traditional college, much to his parents' chagrin, in order to study fashion. He was the first male student admitted to Tokyo’s Bunka fashion college and used his education to work small design jobs for various Japanese department stores. Feeling unfulfilled by this aspect of the industry, he was urged by an old college mentor to explore the ample opportunities of Parisian fashion. In 1965 Kenzo traveled to Paris by boat exploring various cities and cultures along the way. This journey ultimately inspired a deep love for travel within the designer that was soon translated into his collections. At the start of his career in Paris, Kenzo worked as a freelancer, scraping together just enough money to afford low end fabrics which he then after, combined with the more ornate fabrics that he had brought with him from his travels. This eclectic mix ultimately inspired his label “Kenzo” which he created in 1970. The designs originally featured in this collection were a marriage of eastern and western styles. They emphasized boxy, comfortable silhouettes meant to appeal to the Parisian youth, who had grown tired of the pretentious elegance that the industry had previously presented.
Above all, Kenzo’s collections were considered to be a joyous embodiment of freedom and excitement. This tone was further portrayed through the creative theatrics of his fashion shows. Kenzo aspired to design clothes that were a reflection of everyday life. His shows echoed the energy and vibrancy of the cultures he was inspired by, as well as the youthful nature of his target demographic.
Kenzo's innovative style and emphasis on multicultural design helped to reframe the largely European standard of couture. Perhaps the most palpable example of this ideal was his reclamation of a derogatory phrase by naming his first store “Jungle Jap”. By using this term, Kenzo reframed the meaning of the word by giving it a positive correlation. This bold choice is indicative of the overwhelmingly luminous nature that the designer exuded. The freedom and vibrancy that Kenzo’s collections offered, revolutionized the industry, and allowed fashion to be experienced not only as a status symbol but as an outlet for fun and creativity.
Strike Out,
Writer: Annamarie Simoldoni
Editor: Joey Flanagan
Graphics: Audrey Estupinan
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