A Renegade Dame’s Fashion Legacy & Spicy Duds for the Modern Mutineer
Frida Khalo. Banksy. Keith Haring. Langston Hughes. Maya Angelou. Carol King. Elton John…
These artists’ names invoke, almost like a spell, an intense fervor in the hearts of their admirers: an excitement and passion fueled by something intangible, yet more real than most things in this world. But it's not their fame that draws lovers of craft and culture to the work of these momentous maestros. It’s something arguably more invigorating than popularity: it’s their roles as revolutionaries, and their positions throughout history as spearheads for artistic movements that have changed the world as we know it. It’s their fearless, raw defense of themselves and, by extension, each of us.
There is another name that undoubtedly belongs among them, a name hailing from the world of postmodern, high-end fashion: that of the “high priestess of punk,” the “Queen of Extreme” herself, Vivienne Westwood.
Dame Vivienne turned the British fashion scene on its crown (*cheeky wink*) from the moment her career began; subverting societal expectations, pushing cultural boundaries, and making space for her own brand of tongue-in-cheek anarchy whenever possible. Not to mention she single-handedly pioneered the fashion aesthetic of the British punk scene of her time. So inouï, I know.
But, designing for the Sex Pistols and having her own iconic storefront in London was just the beginning.
Farther down the line, Westwood’s style turned high fashion; and with this transformation came bigger, bolder messaging. Her garments, models, and runway shows continuously and unapologetically snubbed the British crown, and even chastised other world governments for corrupt practices; highlighting issues like social injustice and the deliberate omission of climate change from global news headlines and legislative conversations. She advocated for less waste in fashion, encouraging the public to “buy less, choose well, and make it last.”
She even called for the complete dismantling of capitalism, asserting through her designs and even through her own protesting in the streets of London, that it was the cause of economic inequality, and thereby all problems related to it.
Before Dame Vivienne, fashion as activism had never been done so loudly, so unabashedly; and nothing since has had quite the same cultural impact. Still, Vivienne Westwood was an inspiration, and current artists and brands have followed in her footsteps, continuing to create wearable activism for the modern mutineer.
One such contemporary brand is CHNGE. The brand’s garments, which are climate-neutral and made of GOTS-certified cotton, usually sport simple, punchy taglines in handwritten fonts. Slogans like “Women don’t owe you shit”, ”Don’t be a mother f*cker, protect the planet at all costs”, “Against abortion? Have a vasectomy”, “Protect kids, not guns”, and “Love whoever the f*ck you want” adorn plain colored tees and tank tops, keeping the brand’s messaging front and center.
Obviously, in today’s technologically integrated society, such sentiments are not necessarily far and few between. Social media especially has made it so everyone’s opinions are everywhere.
But, that doesn’t mean the work of CHNGE and other activism-centric fashion entities are any less critical than when Vivienne Westwood reigned supreme (not to say she doesn't still, but I digress). And as a matter of fact, this work may be more vital now than ever.
After all, governments are still corrupt, the planet still needs saving, the disenfranchised still need advocates, and artists still (and always will) need to assert their unbridled creativity in the face of the status quo.
So here’s to the artists, the activists, the revolutionaries, and of course, the bold and unapologetic rebel fashionistas of today who will continue to change the world. Thanks to them, we’re in for a hell of a lot more riveting tomorrow.
Strike Out,
O. Shea Garvey
Saint Augustine