A Quick Run Down of Victorian Fashion
When discussing modesty and the pinnacle of aristocratic fashion, people often reference the Victorian era. This era in fashion is often described as the peak of head-to-toe coverings, corsetry, and big, fancy hats. While these stereotypes are true at times– even if perpetuated by the media– there is a lot more to the Victorian era than big, elegant dresses and corsets so tight the women couldn’t breathe.
The biggest stereotype about women's fashion in any era other than the modern era is that corsets were constrictive, bone-crushing devices that were detrimental to every woman. This is not true. In actuality, tight lacing is something that was only done by the aristocracy, and even then, it was only on special occasions. Working class women had corsets that were more akin to the bras we have in modern society. They were made with boning for postural and breast support, but were otherwise made out of a moveable and breathable cotton or canvas. Women were responsible for all the housework, cooking, and childcare. If they were part of the working class, they would not be able to wear a tight laced corset that restricted their movement, but furthermore, they would not be able to afford one. This type of corset was specifically reserved for the rich attending balls or other fancy parties. They usually included more boning and were made out of finer fabrics. While some women did tight lace while around the house, it still wasn’t common. With maids and servants, they wouldn’t be expected to do as much housework as the working class. Aristocratic women were often referred to as “Angel in the House,” which was a name given to the women who were seen and not heard. They would sit in the parlors peacefully embroidering while the men would work, and at dinner parties, they would serve and be wonderful hosts, but nothing more. For this lifestyle, tighter corsets were used as they were expected to move less. Even with this expectation, tight lacing was not common. Women were not passing out because of their corsets. If anything, they were passing out because of the arsenic in their walls.
Walls weren’t the only thing that contained arsenic. This toxin was well known at the time for its vibrant green hue, similar to what we would call emerald green today. This color was loved by the aristocracy as it was expensive to get ahold of due to how difficult it was to make. This was around the time that the British were moving away from candlelight to gaslight and the color– as described by the people at the time– seemed to glow under the light. It was then that women started falling “randomly” ill. It caused “sores and ulcers to appear on the skin and sweating increased the release of arsenic from the dye and allowed it to sink into the blood stream. This caused the hair to fall out, vomiting of blood and the liver and kidneys to shut down.” This was not inherently new to Victorians who were falling ill quite frequently. Arsenic poisoning wasn’t really considered a thing until the late 1800s into the early 1900s. At this point, the narrative started to become muddled in regards to why women were falling ill.
These were not the only new fashion trends of the Victorian era in the aristocracy. There began to be a rise in the use of crinoline to make the skirts seem fuller, as well as bustles to make the woman seem like she had a more curvaceous figure. But nothing was more popular than the introduction of gloves. These long, silk opera gloves were often a sign of wealth and good breeding. While it in part had to do with modesty– as women who were of age and being courted could not show too much skin– it also had to do with concealment. The whiter and more delicate a woman’s hands were, the less work she had to do, which meant the richer her family was. Working women would have calloused hands, oftentimes with scars from injuries related to cooking and sewing. But women who wore gloves all the time remained unblemished and dainty, which was a big draw to suitors at the time. If a woman of marrying age had soft, pale hands, that meant her father was well to do and a union between the two families could be seen as beneficial in terms of social standing and money.
The Victorians had some weird fashion trends, which don’t really seem to translate to today. Modesty isn’t really a big thing, nor are poofy dresses or skirts made of poison. But if nothing else, it does teach us that rich people will always have strange habits.
Strike Out,
E Dunsmuir
St. Augustine
Editor: Maya Kayyal
E Dunsmuir (he/they) is a writer for Strike St. Augustine. He loves Victorian England, emo music, and anything to do with horror. When they're not writing for Strike, he’s probably texting his boyfriend or watching TV with their roommates. You can reach him at edunsmuir66@gmail.com or @edunsmuir66 on most social media platforms.