A Love Letter to Black American Designers
Image Courtesy: Strike FAU
Almost every trend we see in fashion today can be traced back to Black culture and Black creatives. The fashion industry has been carried by the talent of Black designers for ages.
Streetwear is a quintessential feature in fashion and is a product of Black designers. Willi Smith is one of the pioneers of streetwear. He originally designed for Digits Sportswear and moved onto his own brand, WilliWear. Smith took inspiration from the environment around him, using Black culture in his designs. “Most of these designers who have to run to Paris for color and fabric combinations should go to church on Sunday in Harlem. It’s all right there.” (Smith, Marie Claire).
Patrick Kelly, another influential Black designer, used similar inspirations. "In one pew at Sunday church in Vicksburg, there’s more fashion to be seen than on a Paris runway." (Kelly, Marie Claire). Kelly’s designs can be seen on stars including Madonna and Princess Diana.
A popular trend seen today in streetwear is thanks to an iconic Black designer, Dapper Dan. Logomania is a style pioneered by Dapper Dan, loved by the hip hop culture of the 80s, and made famous by artists like P Diddy and Jay Z. Harlem was Dapper Dan’s showroom, and his logo stylings are now recognized by their respective brands, though their use was illegal during their initial popularity. Dan now has an atelier in collaboration with Gucci in Harlem, making his designs the first luxury brand out of the neighborhood.
Image Courtesy: Metro Times
Black women designers shaped the style of clothing women have worn for decades. One of these designers is Kimora Lee Simmons, the creator of Baby Phat. Originating as a model and Chanel muse, Kimora wanted to make a place for women in streetwear. "No matter your size or heritage, what united the Baby Phat girl was a desire to look good, feel great, and do it on a dollar” (Simmons, Marie Claire). Simmons used her own body to design pieces for the brand, making it a by woman for woman brand. Baby Phat was loved by the hip hop community and seen on celebrities such as Aaliyah and Lil Kim.
Image Courtesy: Fader
Zelda Barbour Wynn Valdes was the first Black designer to open her own shop. In 1948, Zelda opened her design studio in New York City on Broadway. She was commissioned in 1958 to create the original Playboy Bunny costume, the first uniform to obtain a patent from the U.S. Trademark Office. Her designs were seen on Eartha Kitt, Ella Fitzgerald, and Joyce Bryant, the ‘Black Marilyn Monroe,’ as coined by Life Magazine in the early 1950s.
Today, we still continue to see the emergence of brilliant Black designers. One of the most famous streetwear brands of today, OffWhite, is led by Virgil Abloh as CEO and designer. Telfar Clemens is the mastermind behind the sought after Telfar brand. He is famous for crossing gender lines and creating a unisex bag now known as the ‘Buschwick Burkin.’ More historical contributions can be found in Black designer Stephen Burrows, who proved America’s place in the fashion industry at the Battle of Versailles, drawing on inspiration from streetwear. Fashion as it is known today was created by Black designers.
Strike Out,
Writer: Annie McGrath
Graphic: Hannah Schimko
Boca Raton