The 2022 Oscar Nominees for “Best Costume Design” Explores History Through Fashion

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The Oscars nominated five films for “Best Costume Design,” including Cruella, Cyrano, Dune, Nightmare Alley, and West Side Story. All five films delve into different historical periods while using pieces that represent their settings, social issues, and characters’ personalities. The costumes in Cruella were designed by Jenny Beavan, a two-time Oscar winner for her work on previous films, A Room With a View and Mad Max: Fury Road. When designing the film’s main character, Cruella de Vil, she decided to construct pieces that evolved along with her character arc. Focusing on 1970s fashion in London, she used the glam-punk revolution as inspiration, while tying in high-end European couture. Beavan used the concept of recycled fabric to emphasize Cruella’s character as a rebellious fashion designer.

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Designed by Massimo Cantini Parrini and Jacqueline Durran, the costumes in Cyrano captured the essence of France during the 17th-century. Parrini researched 18th-century watercolors in London and Rome museums before creating the costumes. The military uniforms were made entirely from scratch using linen and color dye, and he used layers of light colors to represent each ladder of the social hierarchy. The main character never changed his outfit until the end of the film, when his status changed. Jacqueline West and Robert Morgan designed the costumes for Dune, consisting of battle gear in war and survival scenes and elegant, royal garments worn for ceremonies. The authoritarian costumes represented the medieval era but with a modern twist. Instead of going the futuristic route, they drew their inspiration from Greek mythology, ancient tarot cards, and alchemy. The key influence behind the film’s attire was Spanish fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, whose designs were influenced by Diego Velazquez and Francisco Goya paintings. The main costume is an elaborate gray stillsuit worn by the Fremen desert dwellers. The capes and cloaks serve as camouflage, while the robes give off a romantic ambiance. There’s a simplicity to the costumes that makes them appear more spiritual-like.

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The noir thriller Nightmare Alley, directed by Guillermo del Toro, included designs from Luis Sequeira, who previously won an Oscar for his work on The Shape of Water. The apparel was inspired by the 1940s glamour of high-society New York. They represented Bradley Cooper’s character and his rise from being a carnival worker to a member of elite status. Sequeira created two separate worlds in one film by using two distinct color palettes that helped tell the story. The fashion is monochromatic, with pieces acquired from European archives. Issued by the British government, suits from 1939 were sent to Sequeira to use as templates to design the suits seen by men in the film. Cate Blanchett’s character wore elegant gowns and capes that represented the goal of old money Cooper’s character desired. Sequeria used Parisian fashion sketches from the ‘40s as inspiration for Blanchett’s femme fatale look.

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Steven Spielberg’s remake of West Side Story was designed by Paul Tazewell, a Tony Award-winning designer who worked on Hamilton and In The Heights. Taking place in 1957 New York, the wardrobe utilized history to communicate both time and place. The differences between the rival gangs, the Caucasian Jets and the Puerto Rican Sharks, were displayed in their outfits. The Jets wore blues, denim, and leather, while the Sharks wore tailored clothing with colorful patterns. Tazewell’s purpose of using different color palettes was to show the audience which perspective they were viewing the scene from. A warm environment came from the point of view of the Latino community, whereas a cool environment was representative of the Caucasians. Iconic statement pieces include Anita’s yellow “America” dress and Maria’s white lace dress with a red belt. The costumes seen in a film help show the history of a specific place and the psychology of a character.

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The 94th Academy Awards will premiere on March 27th, 2022.

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