Pépé: The Phenomenon of Second-Hand Clothing in Developing Countries
Image Courtesy: CNN
In his 2013 project titled Pépé, photographer Paolo Woods documents the harsh reality created by overconsumption, globalization, and free trade within the textile industry. His photos contain a collection of various Haitian residents sporting T-shirts portraying vulgar and crude text. Often appearing in the remote provinces of Haiti where the shirts have not been translated into French Creole. These articles of clothing, among many others, are ubiquitous in roadside markets across Haiti. These discarded second-hand garments arrive on the islands, leaving locals to sort through the unmarketable apparel that has been rejected by American thrift shops, charities, and collection centers. However, the vulgar and tacky nature of pépé is just the beginning of a multitude of issues.
Image Courtesy: The Eye of Photography
Although the donation of clothing to developing countries appears to be a good idea on the surface, it has many unforeseen consequences. Second-hand clothing imports began during the Kennedy administration in the 1960s as part of an international aid program. These “Kennedy clothes” allow Haitians to purchase clothing for as little as thirteen cents. Hundreds of thousands of tons of clothing are dumped into these nations, making the locals responsible for the costs of storage, sorting, and transportation. Additionally, these donations have negative effects on the local economy. Not being able to keep up with the low prices and high supply of second-hand clothing, millions of local producers and tailors have been put out of business. Textile manufacturing was previously Haiti’s largest industry; however, after falling victim to the expiration of its global system trade quota in 2005, as well as to the devasting effects of the 2010 earthquake, many of the T-shirts that originated in Haiti as products returned as donations. Many pieces of the donated clothing were made in Haiti in the factories of Port Au Prince, sent to the US, and returned after being donated or discarded. Woods notes, “A T-shirt produced for Wal-Mart in the sweatshops of Port au Prince will be sported by a Texan and then returned to the sender, who, at last, will be able to wear it.”
Image Courtesy: Eco Warrior Princess
Although there are conflicting opinions as to whether the donation of second-hand clothing is beneficial or harmful, the negative effects appear to outweigh the positive. Critics who are aware of the harm done to local producers, however, note that the accessibility to second-hand clothing helps consumers by allowing for good prices, values, and selections. Quality clothing and brand-name items are sometimes available at extremely low prices for Haitian consumers. It is also argued that the import of second-hand clothing creates jobs for Haitians. Regardless, the import of second-hand clothing contains many environmental, trade, and labor rights issues. Developing countries become dependent on the overconsumption of fast fashion from western countries. The jobs created by the import of second-hand clothing, like sorting and transportation, do not come close to the number of jobs generated by local manufacturing. Additionally, the import of these articles of clothing puts nations in a trade deficit, importing goods instead of producing and exporting their own. This ultimately prevents development and leads to economic instability and debt, leaving little to no reserves for countries to rely upon during periods of economic downfall.
Image Courtesy: AGOA.info
Unfortunately, the phenomenon of pépé is not unique to Haiti. The import of second-hand clothing to developing nations has become such an issue that countries are working towards banning the import of apparel. To restore local textile industries and improve the economy, multiple East African countries such as Tanzania, Kenya, and Uganda have proposed to implement a ban on all imported clothing or, in Swahili, mitumba. In 2018, 80% of clothing purchases made in Uganda were second-hand. Additionally, changes need to be made in western countries responsible for the influx of second-hand clothing. According to the Council of Textile Recycling, only 10-20% of the 2 million tons of textiles donated in the United States annually end up in thrift stores. The remaining percentage is then sold on the international second-hand clothing market, including in developing nations. To mitigate the effects of second-hand apparel on local economies, we must first consume less and reduce our reliance on cheap and unsustainable fast fashion that will soon end up on the islands of Haiti.
Strike Out,
Writer: Jayna O
Editor: Roxy Rico
Tallahassee