NYFW’s Scarlet Symphony
Image Courtesy: Bruno & Nico
When the vibrancy of a garment speaks for itself, the world stops to listen. Scarlet, usually seen as just a color, is the name of a fabric that has been utilized in fashion for centuries. During the Victorian era, women’s undergarments were crafted from scarlet fabric to radiate a sense of mystique and seduction. A quality that modern runways have recaptured. Wearing scarlet commands attention to the stories told through a singular shade on the catwalk.
How can one captivating shade represent sin, purity, war, and love? Historically, the elitism of scarlet and its symbolism of power and wealth arose from its rarity. Women in scarlet wielded the power of the “Red Dress Effect,” which refers to the heightened sex appeal one gives off when wearing red. Dramatic evening gowns, exquisite lingerie, and decadent robes were all curated in the shade of scarlet during the Victorian era. The Scarlet Letter (1850), which takes place after the Victorian era, utilizes the color scarlet to label and socially ostracize a harlot for adultery. The comprehensive theme of The Scarlet Letter evolves throughout the piece, bringing focus to the empowerment of women gaining sensual freedom. In fashion, scarlet represented the double standard within society, discouraging the sexual freedom of women while encouraging it amongst men. The duality of scarlet within fashion—to condemn and encourage sexuality—represents the color's elusive nature, as its antithetical properties make it a powerful design element.
Designer Dauphinette created an explosive 2024 Fall Couture collection, presented at New York Fashion Week, entitled Carnivorous Lust. The collection showcases 30 garments as The Vegetarian, showcasing a scene of darkness, metal cutlery, and of course, scarlet. Aside from Dauphinette’s dietary preferences, The Vegetarian Collection embodies Dauphinette’s ambition to enter the realm of controversy and portray complexities in her designs. She employs the color scarlet in many luxurious gowns, incorporating key design elements that resemble animalistic characteristics such as three-dimensional bugs and beetles. The usage of nature within her collection adds an organic perspective that goes beyond contrasting her previous, more reserved collections. This transition reflects a shift from abstaining to devouring, with scarlet as an eye-catching focal point.
Image Courtesy: SHOWstudio
Robert Wun, a surrealist genius, concocted the collection For Love in Paris in the Spring of 2024. Wun masterfully portrays the striking capabilities of scarlet in garments that represent impurity and sanctification. His couture possesses a horrific edge that ignites conversation. Wun captures the gruesome potential of scarlet while incorporating feminine elegance, all encapsulating the depths to which humans go for love. A wedding dress ruined by bloodshed and a subconscious weight of haunting beauty demonstrates the double-edged sword that is love and beauty. Creating a collection that reflects the tenderness of horror, where flaws are embraced rather than hidden in shame, Wun brings this eerie notion to the color red and the purifying, polluting characteristics of scarlet.
Image Courtesy: People
Finally, this third collection involving scarlet features my favorite aspect of fashion: accessories! We all know and love Tommy Hilfiger’s classic, preppy, and chic looks. It's safe to say his 2024 Winter/Fall collection did not disappoint. Hilfiger’s incorporation of pops of red adds eye-catching layers to his designs without diminishing their classy vibe. He exemplifies how scarlet can elevate garments without overpowering the brand. The use of scarlet in Winter couture creates a dichotomy between the color’s ability to emphasize icy elements while still providing fire.
Image Courtesy: The Guardian
Around the globe, designers have harnessed the power of scarlet throughout history to convey their stories. A closer look at these fashion collections reveals the complexity of this color, often showcasing deeper meanings within each garment. Understanding the nuances of fashion transforms our perspective on runways, enabling us to appreciate art in its fullest form.
Strike Out,
Writer: Isabelle Kim
Editor: Emily Montarroyos
Graphic Designer: Carly Collins
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