Growing Threads

Image Courtesy: Dezeen

It's no surprise that eco-conscious practices are sparking conversation in the fashion industry. We've seen how thrifting has become a trend of its own, ironically alongside the expansion of fast fashion. Upcycling is gaining traction, with the incentive to create something memorable with items you may have never imagined. In Issey Miyake's Spring 2024 collection, we see this expansion through the creation of an egg carton jacket. It's easy to accept these practices as a full extension of ecologically focused fashion, but this is certainly not the last step. In order to encourage new environmental practices, we must question our concept of sustainability, which is exactly what these high fashion projects aim to do. From the development of biomaterials such as algae yarn to a practically weightless purse, we will see how the incorporation of natural elements and organisms is the future of sustainability.

Image Courtesy: Dezeen

Scarlett Yang, a recent Central Saint Martins graduate, rejected the current state of fabric production through the use of instantly decomposable biomaterials. Yang used algae extract and silk cocoon protein to create a glass-like dress that can disintegrate in water within 24 hours. Due to its sensitivity to water, the dress also changes composition depending on factors such as humidity and temperature levels. For instance, if the dress is worn in a dry winter, the material will stiffen, giving it a sculptural resemblance. As stated in an interview with Dezeen Magazine, Yang hopes that the development of pieces such as these will “change consumers' outlook on the current state of material production.” Most clothing projects in the fashion industry go through a period of trial and error, resulting in excess material production. Not only are these materials wasted, but they are often resistant to decomposition. With her approach to biomaterials, Yang challenges sustainable limits while altering consumers' perceptions of materialistic life cycles.

Image Courtesy: TheCut

Although the concept of a compostable gown is intriguing, it's safe to assume that something so fragile won't prove very marketable to consumers. For Fall/Winter’24, Coperni takes ecologically favorable concepts and makes them into something durable. Labeled the Air Swipe bag, this nearly transparent clutch is made out of 99 percent air and 1 percent “glass.” Interestingly enough, the “glass” portion is made of silica aerogel. This nanomaterial is quite incredible, and NASA has utilized it to collect cosmic dust. Notably described as “delicate but not fragile,” this element can withstand extreme temperatures and pressure up to 4,000 times its weight. Not only is it possible for a material to be completely organic, but it can also withstand incomprehensible conditions.

The creation of such simple yet intricate items opens a new pathway for sustainability. Although a compostable algae dress is not entirely practical, it certainly makes a statement regarding the current state of consumption. Often enough, especially in the fashion industry, we see sustainability as a one-sided practice. We must recognize that recycling can only do so much and challenge ourselves to investigate new ecological initiatives. This will begin a new branch of fashion while also promoting and modifying sustainable advancements.

Strike Out,

Writer: Emma Stanfield

Editor: Cristina Angee

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