Fashion Week Comments on Human Pursuit of Comfort

Image Courtesy: Vogue

As subjective as it may be, fashion manifests cultural trends, society’s feelings and physical state. After New York Fashion Week wrapped up last week, attendees and viewers witnessed collections testifying to the creativity, diversity and innovation of the current fashion world. This pattern of designers hailing from borders near and far, pushing the limits of the decided fashion norms isn’t exclusive to the U.S. Two days after, London Fashion Week packed its own queue of designers redefining comfortability in the fashion industry.

Both New York and London served as reflections of the broader societal changes occurring in all realms of human life. Designers incorporated elements of streetwear, athletic wear and subcultural references into their collections, challenging the notions of formality and appropriateness. Society is witnessing a perceptual shift normalizing formality where it is rejected, and normalizing comfort where it’s denied.

Image Courtesy: Vogue

Christian Siriano kicked off NYFW with pieces alluding to today’s human adoration of glamor. Yet, humans found themselves in a seemingly unglamorous, apocalyptic world. In the 60 pieces he brought onto the runway, Siriano presented a palette of earthy colors, gold, brown and orange tones in addition to his signature inclusion of red and black. His avante-garde approach is emblematic of his style, as seen in his Fall’23 and Spring’24 collections. His most recent collection included slitted gowns, sheer fabrics, cropped-swollen jackets and wide-leg trousers. The apocalyptic world of Siriano showcases the determination of humans to ‘show up’ amid chaos and the inevitable evolution of life itself. 

The Asia Fashion Collection presented five different collections of up-and-coming designers with roots in Japan, Taiwan and Korea. Their collections alluded to the aftermath of the apocalyptic world Siriano was inspired by. Of those five designers, Kiyoka Hase introduced spectators to a fictional reality suggesting the tenacity of today’s youth to embrace free-spiritedness. Hase’s collection ‘Free Yourself’ focused on the idea of self-liberation and discovery. This collection included hefty jumpsuits, wide-leg cargo trousers, laced-up trench coats and generously cut, draped jackets. The pieces alluded to combat uniforms, inspiring the idea of one’s fight to construct a world that embraces free thought.

The close-off to New York Fashion Week was met with the grand opening of London Fashion Week — and, it’s safe to say London did not disappoint. The queue of designers included Burberry, JW Anderson, Bora Aksu and emerging talents like menswear designer Robyn Lynch. 

JW Anderson’s designer, Jonathon Anderson, blurred the lines between comfort and glamor, and the human and nonhuman. In the collection, knitted dresses were accentuated with a floral belt, alluding to society’s determination to broaden the spectrum of identity. In other pieces, spectators witnessed a marriage of loungewear and athleticism; oversized sweaters were draped over shorts, paired with slipper-like shoes. A key ensemble from Anderson’s collection features an oversized blazer, extending below the knee, employed with the recurring slippers seen throughout the collection. 

Like Anderson, Robyn Lynch kindled a partnership between athleticism, formality and heritage. Lynch’s collection included puffed jackets and coats paired with nylon-like trousers, divided by an Irish-inspired peplum. The rest of the collection included an integration of hooded sweaters and structured slacks. She also draped a delicately cut blazer, cropped in the front and elongated in the back, with cargos and a crew neck. Lynch’s collection mirrors the shift in workplace expectations and behaviors. Following the pandemic, remote work established itself as the new norm. Leaving many on zoom screens dressed-to-impress for the camera, and dressed for comfort outside of the lens. 

Building upon previous seasons, where designers blurred the lines of gender expression, luxury and inclusivity, and tradition and technology, this month saw an exploration of formality and comfort. In literal and metaphorical terms, the pieces seen on the runway are subtle reminders of our instinctual pursuit of comfort amidst discomfort. 

Strike Out,

Writer: Laila Musleh

Editor: Annika Chaves

Boston