Barrier Breakdown
Image Courtesy: Eugene Chystiakov on Unsplash
Fashion is synonymous with reform. Throughout history, mankind has wielded its power as a tool for social progress that has immensely contributed to the contemporary rights we enjoy today. It can be observed anywhere from the flappers of the ‘20s, empowering the feminine form and liberating women from the repressive society norms before the Hippie movement of the ‘60s that gave the youth a voice to be heard in society. However, one element has remained an unspoken taboo. That is, up until recently. Two words that have seemed to plague the fashion industry in the previous century. When placed together, they are being increasingly employed in campaigns and runway shows. That is: body modifications.
Towards the end of the twentieth century, Jean Paul Gaultier redefined gender norms and body modifications in the lens of the fashion industry with his radical Spring/Summer 1994 collection. Through the controversy ensuing from its debut, it would lay the foundation for the rapidly evolving and increasingly inclusive fashion industry we recognize today.
Image Courtesy: Instagram
Throughout the show, models saturated in tattoos and piercings made their way down the runway in a fusion of Gaultier’s observations on the streets along with an entrancing flair of eastern mysticism with elements reminiscent of Joan of Arc. The dynamic and provocative quality of Gaultier’s collection surpassed its incorporation of tattoos and piercings to further embrace the alternative aesthetic with vividly colored hair adorned with chains that evoked a message of embracement towards individuality. Through his ability to integrate social commentary into his collection, it was not only dubbed as one of the 25 most memorable shows of the 90’s; but also massively influenced younger generations of designers to take a more inclusive approach to creating and showcasing their collections.
It was the year 2000. Exterior: Paris. Interior: Alexander McQueen’s Ready to Wear runway show. The room was decadently thick with excitement and angst. Many were unprepared for the controversy of Eshu, McQueen’s mythologically mused collection based on Yoruba culture. Its focus, reimagining the concept of the silhouette while paying homage to tribal culture. This manifested in multiple prongs piercing through the septum and lips of models.
Inherent in McQueen’s work was the ability to transcend the oppressive restraints on self-expression. Further, one could even go as far to say through his work, Alexander McQueen became an international emblem for social progress through the lens of fashion. His legacy of expanding boundaries continues to challenge conventional norms with references to alternative fashion alongside the incorporation of delectably dark visual narratives, even after his death, as is made readily observable with the debut of its Fall/Winter 2016 menswear collection. Specifically, with male models sporting the brand’s reinvention of the classic suicide chain.
Under the direction of Sara Burton, Alexander McQueen reimagined the iconic punk staple with earrings connected by a chain to safety pins pierced through the cheeks of models, as opposed to the traditional model connecting to a nose piercing. Traditionally, suicide chains served as a visual representation of submission. Through this, McQueen’s collection enthralled audiences with its visual opposition to the patriarchal pressure for male dominance in society.
Image Courtesy: Instagram
It comes as no surprise that these are few of the countless examples his vision transcended past the molded society attempted to impose upon fashion through its gender-binding and, often, superficial constraints with its attempts to keep fashion “pretty”. Past the limited scope of aesthetics, the experimental tendencies prevalent in his work that thrived off shock value challenged the norms of major fashion houses by shifting the focus from pleasing the visual senses of its audiences to a symbolic direction that communicates ideas for sociological metamorphosis.
However, McQueen and Gaultier alone cannot be credited for the recent embracement of body modifications on the runway. In the Fall/Winter 2015 season, Givenchy introduced its collection with models flaunting gelled baby hairs paired with countless facial piercings. What Creative Director Riccardo Tisci dubs “Chola Victorian,” ensued as a collaborative effort alongside Pat McGrath. What resulted? Powerfully orchestrated ornate, jewel encrusted, septum piercings with dangling charms alongside heavy employment of additional facial piercings, individually created with the aim of adorning each model’s unique features.
Its ingenious execution extends past the scope of introducing body modifications to the runway to further translate and promote individuality as opposed to the copy and paste, formulaic approach taken to runway shows. While such collections’ uniformity and almost-utilitarian quality has received much acclaim due to its ability to place additional emphasis on the collection’s pieces, one cannot help but wonder if it promotes a clone-esque quality that hinders individuality through its employment.
Image Courtesy: Instagram
Like runway shows, campaigns, too, pose a tremendous indicator of the fashion industry’s evolution with its embracement of stylistic diversity as can be observed in the work of models such as Fernanda Ly, Soo Joo Park, and Irene Kim. Through Ly’s involvement in Tiffany & Co.’s Spring/Summer 2017 campaign she is breaking down barriers in the fashion industry that previously casted out models with vibrantly colored hair from participating in luxury campaigns. Ly reports her pink hair actually jump started her career, which eventually led to campaign deals and runway shows with brands such as Dior and Louis Vuitton, amongst countless others.
With the rapid adoption and evolution of alternative aesthetics in modern society, it is pivotal for the fashion industry to embrace diversity, especially in terms of style, to appeal to younger audiences. Whether it may be down the runway or in campaigns, representation of alternative fashion is stealthily on the rise. While there is much room for improvement, the dynamic and all-embracing direction the twenty-first century has demonstrated poses a bright future for luxury fashion.
Strike Out,
Writer: Jonathan Kopp
Editors: Cailin Rolph, Natalia Finnis-Smart
Miami