An Honest NYFW Recap
If New York Fashion Week is one of the premiere moments of the year in fashion, why was it dominated by boobs?
In all seriousness, the Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear shows were everything but uniform. While ‘freeing the nipple’ may have been quite a thematic element in a recap of the shows, I would like to virtually dive into NYFW to review what I think is hot and what is definitely not.
To kick off the highly anticipated week, Peter Do brought the Helmut Lang label back to the runway for Do’s debut collection. While the typical fashion reporter would be caught up on Do’s revival, I think we need to move on. Yes, some looks were good, but Do’s insistence on kicking off NYFW — honoring Helmut Lang’s own legacy — has served as a distraction. So, I am officially telling you to move on.
While Do was in the spotlight, Siying Qu and Haoran Li of Private Policy closed out Day One with what I think was one of the more unique shows of NYFW. Placing the majority of their models in platform slippers or flip-flops with utility-driven garments, the designers were still able to honor their rave-like heritage, all while sourcing sustainable materials (primarily for their denim, which we saw a decent amount of on their runway). That sentence makes the show sound like a fashion jambalaya, but some of the looks definitely served.
Speaking of jambalaya, a few other designers also attempted (key word) to combine the unconventional. The Ralph Lauren show consisted of what was expected of the house with a touch of (what I reference as) “Burning Man Couture.” Was it interesting? Yes. Do I ever want to see it again? No.
Additionally, Eckhaus Latta surprised us with The Idol’s Vanity Fair writer-turned-Doctor Barbie-turned-model Hari Nef on their runway infusion of texture. While sheers comprised the majority of the show, lace, leather, denim and knit garments were forged to piece together a respectful collection. Kudos to Zoe Latta (of Eckhaus Latta) who, in my humble opinion, beat out Adeam’s Hanako Maeda in presenting an assembly of mixed textiles. While Madea’s runway stood out with consistently intricate sleeves, she definitely conformed to the unspoken theme of this NYFW: exposed nipples.
Now, let's get to the crème de la crème: Dion Lee. Styled by Patti Wilson and assisted by none other than the head girlboss herself, Miss Emma Oleck (Chief Executive Advisor of Strike Magazines), the Dion Lee runway featured a top-tier symphony of pockets, denim and a dynamic repurposing of casual staples. Not only did the collection actually look unified — something I appreciate — but the show had an appropriate flow (no rhyme intended). While royal blues and blood reds interjected the achromatic palette, Lee presented a prestigious restoration of energized workwear that will definitely be dominating the streets once the ready-to-wear collection is released.
It was not until Piotrek Panszczyk’s Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear collection for Area that I was impressed again this fashion week. This show was fucking hot, dare I say; and I’m not talking about how the models must feel under those inflated garments. The jungle-esque, prehistoric couture took ‘ribbed’ and ‘bone-structured’ fashion to another level. Featuring claw-resemblant jewelry to intensely stoned headpieces, Panszczyk knows how to make a statement.
Not only did Panszczyk for Area present a fantastic collection, but a strategic handling of light was the garnish to the steller runway. Catherine Holstein took a similar approach to bring the drama for Khaite. Definitely the darkest collection of the season’s presentations, Holstein presented a show that fights to be on the same upper echelon as Area and Dion Lee. Sharp leather edges and draping silks were beautifully presented down a floor of displaced spotlights, forcing vigilance from the attendees in order to get a good look. Despite the drama and fine artistry that allows me to label this show as a dark horse, the star of Khaite’s Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear collection was a brass belt of clasping hands. It was the strongest motif of this collection, making seven appearances and grabbing my attention every time. Please send that accessory in my PR package, Cat!
Into the meat-and-potatoes of NYFW, Sergio Hudson dominated in a fierce presentation of chic office wear, only to lose several points in my book after I made eye contact with those awful sequin garments. The models that graced this runway, however, knew how to work it.
The Michael Kors and Tory Burch collections — each of which are legendary in the history of fashion — were both…interesting. My main takeaway from Kors: beige me up Scotty! For Burch: hey EmRata, how did you get here?
Briefly continuing my unhinged segment, I do have to say that look three of Adam Lippes’ Spring 2024 collection instantly triggered a recollection of Kim Kardashian as a “Pioneer Woman” in Issue 13 of CR Fashion Book, styled by Carine Roitfeld (CR herself). After making that connection, I could not recover to comprehend the abundance of floral patterns and straw hats.
Anyway, back to something good, the Laquan Smith show maintained on-theme for this NYFW with several nipples on display. Electric, elevated, party-style couture went down the red-lit glossy runway styled by the Wilson and Oleck team. The vibrant show was closed by a swarmed sea of models accompanied by Smith.
To wrap up the last — I hate to say this — important day of NYFW, Weiderhoeft shocked its audience with a performative display of fashion. Staged at a theater club in the East Village, Jackson Wiederhoeft employed dancers to wear his quirky bridal-inspired apparel. Was this unexpected? Yes. Do I call it hot? Um, no.
Quiet luxury designers Carolina Herrera and Gabriela Hearst also held strong to their traditional, wickedly expensive yet hand-crafted basics, but Hearst featured a little spice in her collection. I like where you are going, girl!
Finally, Tanner Fletcher — a hot and up-and-coming label — portrayed a strong collection styled by someone close to home. Liv Vitale (Issue 09 and 10 Creative Director of Strike Magazine GNV) had her NYFW styling debut working with Tanner Richie and Fletcher Kasell, making it even more exciting that I can give an unbiased praise to the fashion presented in this show. There is something special and weird about every outfit that was sent down that bright runway, and I am here for it.
Ending on that high note, designers, stylists and craftspeople that participated in bringing this September’s NYFW to life all have something to be proud of, regardless of whether or not I think their collection was deranged. The best part of these reviews, however, is being able to save looks for myself, so I’ll leave you wondering which shows I’ve sourced for inspo. Hint: re-read the article.
And before I forget, here are some questions I’ll leave you with: Why were Nike sneakers on the Kim Shui runway? Will Theory ever debut a shocking collection? Am I the only one that is disappointed by Sandy Liang? Was Fforme meant to look like that?
Till next time. Xo
Jacob Wall is the Editor-in-Chief of Strike Magazine Gainesville. In his free time, he enjoys making people call him “Declan” and casually leading a staff of 170.
Image courtesy (all from NYFW): Vogue Runway
Image courtesy (Kim Kardashian): CR Fashion Book
